A clever marketing ploy or a waste of precious holiday time …

it’s all in how you see it, I suppose! At least if you read about it here you can be forwarned and thus forearmed. All around Bali, on the streets of Kuta and Seminyak and in the main tourist shopping areas such as the Bali Collection at Nusa Dua prepare to be accosted by very friendly, enthusiastic people thrusting blue and yellow printed cards at you. On the front is a beautiful photo of a beach scene with scratch off panels along the top. The ones we saw were prominently marked with ‘Royal Hotel, Jimbaran Bay’.

The spruiker scratches off the panels for you, and, lo and behold, you have won something!!! Congratulations are given while you stand there a little bewildered, hot and embarrassed, as it is explained that this is a promotion for a new hotel and that you have to come, right now, with a driver who will take you to have a quick look around the hotel, for which you will receive this wonderful free gift, (mine was a DVD player).

When it happened to us alarm bells began to ring immediately – there ain’t no such thing as a free lunch after all, so we declined the gentleman’s kind offer, feeling awfully guilty as he had explained that he gets a commission for each person he convinces and his sad eyes followed me all the way along the mall!

A little while after we got home I was talking to my mother-in-law who had just come home from Bali and had agreed to go along, so, curious, I asked what actually happened, was it a scam? It turned out that they were taken to a room in an office building at Jimbaran Bay and given a three hour  sales pitch about investing in a 5 star time share property that they could holiday in for free for the equivalent of A$25,000.

Apparently they were taken to look at one of the villas and they were breathtaking, but without that much spare cash they had to decline. They did get the present that was scratched off on the little card, which was a weeks free holiday in one of the villas, (I don’t know if there are restrictions that apply to it though).

Now for some bad news, (my blog today is a bit of a downer I’m afraid), this is my last post on balioffering. My personal knowledge and photos of Bali are all exhausted so I have no choice but to retire! I hope you have enjoyed my blog and maybe got some helpful tips, Bali is truly a magnificent place!!

On a completely different note … if you have enjoyed my blog, perhaps you might like my new children’s book. I have self published it, so I’m afraid it is only available through my printers website, at www.bookstore.bookpod.com.au/p/7182757/mackie-neighbour.html   …  now available for only $10 a copy.

It’s called ‘Mackie Neighbour’ and tells the story of a friendship between a little girl and a cat … here’s a small excerpt …

Holiday reading – truth really is stranger than fiction!

For those of you waiting with bated breath for my recommendations of great holiday reading titles, bate no more! My last post described some fiction that is light, entertaining, compelling and therefore ideal holiday reading…now comes the pick of my (almost) favourite genre, biographies and autobiographies. I find these perfect for reading whilst away, easy to follow, pick up and put down, with the added interest that comes from knowing that this stuff really did happen! They can, however, be a little dry and factual if not written very well, so here are some I really enjoyed. If you are thinking about imminent Christmas presents, or just want something cool to read on your holidays, wherever you may be, this is the post for you. So, here goes, in completely random order and with a few nice holiday snaps to help put you in the mood:

Oprah – by Kitty Kelley. You’ve got to hand it to Ms Kelley, she sure knows how to pen a good book! Even with little actual information to go on, (damn those confidentiality contracts), she still gives a fascinating insight into the world’s most famous personality. Though you are probably already aware of most of the story, the way it is written and the little surprise tidbits every so often are enough to keep a reader hooked, I promise you!

I am Ozzy – by Ozzy Osbourne and Chris Ayres. Sex, drugs and rock n roll, what more could you ask for in a book? Very wittily written by Chris Ayres, he manages to write as if you are sitting next to Ozzy listening to him telling a story – and what a story it is! I literally laughed out loud while reading this. Even if you are not familiar with the band or their music you will still enjoy this peek into the life of a guy who went from working in an abattoir in a coal mining town in England to being a rock God!

The Maharajah’s box: an imperial story of conspiracy, love and a guru’s prophecy – by Christy Campbell. I kid you not – that really is the title! It is the story of a clandestine love affair set in the halcyon days of the British raj in India and is not only very well researched and written but quite un-put-down-able. It was published in 2001 and is a little unusual so might be difficult to find, I discovered it at the library.

Wallis: secret lives of the Duchess of Windsor – by Charles Higham. She was the woman he gave up the throne of England for – and was it worth it? Again, a very in-depth and well researched piece of history that still manages to make you feel as if you are there in the royal residences of the 1930’s amongst the silk skirts, ebony cigarette holders and long bonneted rolls royces.

Charles Manson, Coming Down Fast – by Simon Wells. Murder, drugs, hippies and The Beatles all with a freaky – cheeky sixties vibe. It is graphic, (and includes photos of the crime scenes), so beware if you have a weak stomach, or are buying for Auntie Mabel for Christmas! I have also really enjoyed the original biography of Manson called Helter Skelter written by Vincent Bugliosi, who was the chief prosecutor at his trial. It is a little more in-depth and describes more of the legal aspects so if you are into John Grisham or Scott Turow that might be more your style, however this book is a good overview, a little shorter and with less legal jargon.

And I don’t want to live this life – by Deborah Spungen. The anti love story of this century, it tells the tragic tale of Nancy Spungen, the American groupie who became the girlfriend of punk hero Sid Vicious of the Sex Pistols. This book is written by her mother, and although that might sound kinda weird she writes clearly and with a painful honesty about her daughters problems and eventual untimely death. It also paints a vivid picture of the 70’s punk scene in England: drugs, Malcolm McLaren, anarchy, vomit an all!

Beach holiday + good book = bliss

Want an easy way to stay under your luggage weight limit when travelling? My number one tip is not to pack bad books! Now, obviously everyone’s idea of what constitutes a good book are different, and I’m not holding myself up as an expert, but I thought it might be helpful to share some of the books I have most enjoyed in my life. Now, that said, there has to be some criteria for a holiday-reading book as opposed to a normal run-of-the-mill everyday book. A holiday book has to be light, (both physically and mentally – you don’t want to be lugging the complete works of Shakespeare around the world, no matter how entertaining you think they are), compelling, easily followed, (if a story is too complex or has too many characters to keep track of I find it challenging rather than relaxing), and, last but not least, easily picked up and put down, which is an extension of the last point, I suppose.

So, now we’ve covered the bases, here goes on my favourite reads – by the way, I am female, in case you’re new to this blog, so some of my choices will necessarily be girly I’m afraid, although most will be unisex, also, here’s some beach photos to inspire you!

• The Lovely Bones by Alice Sebold. Don’t be put off by the title, it is a gorgeous book written very cleverly that deals with themes such as life after death, crime and appropriate punishment, families and love. I know, it doesn’t sound like much fun, especially on a holiday but the way it is written will touch you, and I promise you won’t be able to put it down.
• Eat, pray, love by Elizabeth Gilbert. I have mentioned this book before on this blog as it describes Bali in great depth and with great flair for language. Elizabeth Gilbert has turned a rather common theme of woman-in-crisis-after-divorce into an epic of cultural description, keen societal observations and soul searching.
• Road to Paradise by Paullina Simons. Actually, anything by her is just wonderful but if at the point of a gun I had to choose my two favourites I would say this one and A song in the Daylight. Paullina Simons draws you into her characters world from the very first, or maybe sometimes second, page, and you will be so concerned for their welfare that you will find the pages flying past.
• The death of Mr Love by Indra Sinha. I stumbled across this relatively new Indian author at the library and was so impressed by this, his first novel. An interesting idea, a great cast of characters and an atmosphere that makes you feel as if you are experiencing the smells and sounds of India.
• Animal’s people by Indra Sinha. His second novel I found just as entertaining as the first, although in a completely different way. The language takes a little getting used to at first, (don’t read it if you are in polite company or have an aversion to swear words), but in the context it is both appropriate and needed. His little Indian street urchin hero, ‘Animal’ will touch your heart, and you’ll be barracking for him all the way.
• Memoirs of a Geisha by Arthur Golden. An interesting foray into the world of pre war Japan; the life of a Geisha is a fascinating one, so different from any modern experience, and it is skillfully described by the author.
• Perfume by Patrick Suskind. Don’t be misled by this title, either, it is not all hearts and flowers and nice smells. In fact, this novel is about a man obsessed with killing a girl in order to encapsulate her scent. Again, not as morbid as it sounds, the writing is amazing, dreamy and descriptive, and old Paris presents a lovely background.
• In Cold Blood by Truman Capote. This novel became famous as the very first of the true life crime novels, and started its own genre. Truman Capote investigated a terrible murder spree in rural America in the 1950’s. His detailed description of the victims, perpetrators and life in that time period has made this a deserved classic.

• Middlesex by Jeffrey Eugenides. A brilliant portrayal of a ‘girl’ trying to come to terms with her gender and sexuality. Thoughtfully written, it never becomes smutty or sensationalist. It is, however, quite a large book, so if you need a skinnier one I also highly recommend his first book ‘The Virgin Suicides’.  
• The Devil wears Prada by Lauren Weisberger. The ultimate girly book, it gives an insight into the fashion magazine industry that I highly enjoyed, knowing that it is a true story made it that much more fun, (do people really live like that)?
• Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain. His first in a long line of books about what really goes on in a restaurant kitchen, it is not for the squeamish, but is interesting and lighthearted, (and gives a few handy tips about dining out).
• The Ground beneath her Feet by Salman Rushdie. I have recently discovered this author and am really enjoying his works. They are a masterpiece of language and description but for that very reason are not for everybody. This is the one I enjoyed the most, however it is rather hefty, and takes some concentration when reading. The juxtaposition of American and Indian culture, (which is a common theme with Mr Rushdie), adds an interesting depth to the novel.
• The Bride stripped bare by anonymous. Interestingly, quite quickly after this novel was published the real author was outed and turned out to be an American journalist called Nikki Gemmel. The book is different, clever, ribald and almost painful in its description of an extra marital affair. It has got very strong content so if you blush easily, my suggestion is to wear dark glasses and a hat.

• The White Masai by Corinne Hofmann. This book became a runaway bestseller when first published, and it’s easy to see why – the title tells you everything. Who wouldn’t want to know how hard it would be for an educated white woman to fall helplessly in lust with an African Masai warrior and determine to marry him come what may? And it’s the coming what may part that fascinates in this book. Corinne’s writing has an economy of language that it is little off-putting at first but I found it added to her character, once you got used to it.
• Change of Heart by Jodi Picoult. The queen of the modern moral dilemma, Jodi Picoult is one of those authors that it is easy to become addicted to. This is by far her best work, a twisty, well thought out, pacy journey that drags you along until the book is finished. I try to space out her books as they can get a little formulaic if read back to back but for sheer entertainment value that also makes you question every moral value you hold, you can’t go past her.

I must now do a separate category for an author that is a particular favourite of mine – Ben Elton, simply because it’s impossible to pick one or two of his novels to recommend. If he is unfamiliar to readers, he is a British stand-up-comedian and script writer who co-authored The Young Ones and Blackadder tv series. His novels have a dry humour that appeals to me and somewhat wickedly comment on current social ‘happenings’, easy to read and with very likeable characters that sometimes act unpredictably and are full of all-so-human failings, you must,must,must grab one if you haven’t found him yet. He is one of the very few authors I have found that literally make me laugh out loud! They are the perfect holiday read for all the reasons I’ve just described. If you need one to start off with I would suggest, Chart Throb or Blind Faith, as the most current, surprisingly I actually found his latest, Meltdown to not be as enjoyable as his previous works, so I would skip only that. There is one set during WW1 that is a departure for him, but very enjoyable, called The First Casualty.

OK – that takes care of the fiction, sorry if this post is a bit long, and I’ve only scratched the surface really. I will finish up now and do my next blog on biographies and autobiographies, a format that lends itself very well to light reading…stay tuned…

Of course, I’ll have to finish off with a Bali photo:

Resorts in Nusa Dua – the good, the bad and the slightly less than thrilling!

On one of our last days in Nusa Dua in beautiful, balmy Bali we decided, (well, I decided and MD reluctantly came along), to take a wander up the esplanade that runs along the beachfront towards Tanjung Benoa. Of course all the 5 star resorts are built so as to showcase the beach and as you walk or cycle along the path you can check out the other resorts facilities and pick up a bit of a vibe about the place. So this is my completely unbiased and necessarily brief first impressions of three of those that were closest to the Melia resort where we stayed. Why brief? I hear you ask, well, MD has a bit of a dicky knee so walking is definitely not his strong suit.

Right next door to the Melia resort is a modern edifice called the Sheraton Laguna.Their beachfront restaurant looked just divine, with brown woven lamps hanging over tables placed right on the sand. It also had a very schmick looking infinity pool that seemed to go on for…well…infinity. Large woven wicker domes held white cushioned seats and looked over the perfectly manicured lawns out to sea, but those that weren’t in use had signs on them saying reserved so I presume you had to be quick to be able to get one all to yourself. The staff, of course, looked beautifully turned out in immaculate uniforms. The decorating was very modern, all red, white and caramel, and while lovely it had that kind of done-by-a-professional-decorator soulless kind of feel, the hotel could’ve been in any (western) country in the world.   

 Next down the garden path was The Westin resort. Again, somewhat Western style of decorating, the pool was huge and had a separate area for children with a tunnel, waterfall, slide and permanent lifeguard on duty, which is great if you have little ones. The foyer was a gigantic cavern with a high pointed wooden roof, a somewhat small and uninviting looking restaurant/bar and lots of marble. We waited in line for ages at the reception counter to ask if we could take a look at one of their rooms, but were told they were all full. On walking outside again I noticed that the room balconies overlooking the pool were very small, with two chairs that only just fit the small space.

By the time we came to the Nusa Dua Beach resort and spa we were knackered I’m afraid, (those resort frontages are BIG), so that could’ve coloured our judgement. It had the great idea of a prettily decorated cart down by the water that sold cold drinks and fruit kebabs. Unfortunately the hotel looks a tad old and tired these days, with cheap looking plastic tables and wooden chairs, (without cushions), that are desperately in need of a coat of paint. This end of the beachfront is also rather bare of trees and foliage, giving it a rather stark, hot, uninviting look. Also be aware that this end of the beach is the main area for the motorised boating activities so it can get rather noisy with boats and jet-skis careening around during the day.

This is the path leading from the Melia, it also leads back the other way down past the Hilton hotel but I’m afraid we ran out of time to explore it:

Pith helmet? Check. Mahout? Check. We’re going on a safari!

Want to put some happiness in your life? Here are three easy steps:                                  Step one – save as much money as you can and have a holiday in Bali.                               Step two – go to the Elephant safari park.                                                                                 Step three – smile!  (I told you it was easy!)                                                                   

I have mentioned the Elephant park previously in the chapter called ‘Bali Tour choices – a ditherers nightmare’, but as there was so much involved I thought I would give it its own entry. Technically it is called The Elephant Safari Park and Lodge and it is in a place called Taro, which is about 20 minutes drive north of Ubud, in the beautiful mountains of Bali. It is owned and run by a company called Bali Adventure Tours, who also offer mountain bike rides as well as white water rafting trips. You can find them at: www.baliadventuretours.com if you are interested. Their tours can be booked and prepaid  online, which is very handy, or it can be arranged through the local tour operators in Bali if you want to see how your holiday is panning out before making any concrete decisions!

MD and I had booked a mid morning trip, (there’s also afternoon and night ones available), so we were picked up from the lobby of our hotel at 8am, (hell of a time to be up and about on holidays, but believe me, the elephants were worth it)! We were escorted to the coolest little mini bus, brand new, with reclining seats, air conditioning and big, big windows. The drive took about 2 and a half hours, (that’s from Nusa Dua, the traffic was very bad that day, apparently it’s usually less), but I found it almost the best part of the day! The roads are a little bumpy and potholed, especially the closer you get to Ubud, but the view out of those ginormous windows is just amazing, especially once you’re out of the city. The narrow, winding lanes that meander through the countryside haven’t changed in hundreds of years and it’s amazing to be able to watch farmers bringing in crops and wives threshing the rice by hand, even teeny little village shops where the workers gather to sit by the side of the road and have a drink and a chat. Then it’s up into the mountainous area, and literally through the rainforest, past the river Ayung, (if you’re lucky you can spot monkeys cavorting in the trees).

Once at the park you pay to enter the gate, they take cash, credit card or eftpos, (we used our travel cards, see my post on spending money for info on them), it cost 1,600,000 rupiah for both of us, or A$ 200. That covers the drive each way, a buffet lunch, a half hour ride, feeding the elephants, a 15 minute show starring the big guys and use of all the park facilities such as gardens, museum, cafe and shop.

After paying it is a very pretty walk through wild orchid covered gardens down to where the elephants are:

 I might add here that although the park is in the mountains, don’t expect it to be much cooler than town, if anything the humidity is higher, so drink lots of water folks! After making your way down to the main area you can hang out with the elephants straight away. Note: these are Sumatran elephants, so are not as big as African ones, but are just as cute! The keepers bring them over to be patted, hugged etc and have big buckets of sugar cane pieces that you can hand feed to them, (it is difficult to describe just how special it is to be able to be so near such a beautiful animal). 

Next it is time for your ride – two by two people are helped onto a small wooden seat that looks rather precariously balanced on the elephants back, but I am assured they are more stable then they look. A mahout, (or elephant driver, handler, best friend), sits on their head and skillfully encourages them forwards or sideward by nudging behind their ear with his bare foot. I couldn’t help but think of the old nursery song – the elephant sways from side to side, he’s terribly big and terribly wide. The sensation is very soothing, a gentle swaying that, once you get used to the fact that you’re not going to slide off him, is soo much fun.

The elephants very obediently follow a well-worn path that winds hypnotically through the jungle, past people’s farms where little chickens scratch in the dirt and farmers try to eke out a living, through cocoa and banana plantations, (well, a little less like a plantation and a little more like a small holding).

Our mahout, (I’m afraid I forget his name),was a lovely, friendly guy and he gave us lots of interesting information as we rode along – our elephants’ name was Ajung, and he had been with her solely for his 4 years at the park. Each elephant has the same mahout, they form a relationship and he is solely responsible for her welfare. They are trained using rewards, and have 6 days to work and then a day off to rest, (the elephant and the mahout). As we rode along he was gently encouraging her in a stream of Balinese accented English, “Be careful now, Ajung, go slowly now Ajung, we are going downhill now, good girl Ajung.”

The ride ends with the finale to end all finales – you, the mahout and the elephant all walk into the huge central pool and she stands there while the attendants take a few photos with your camera for you, (there are also ones the park take that you can buy, even get put onto a T-shirt). Afterwards you can hand feed her and get some more photos before she goes off for a rest.

By this time we were starting to get a bit peckish, (had missed our usual huge brekky at the resort), and lunch was being served so we went to the restaurant. It is set right on the pool beside where the elephants are so you can watch them as you eat. It is also beautifully decorated with teak furniture and cream stone with a Balinese high thatched roof, and the food was just lovely. I am not usually big on the whole buffet thing but the food was hot, plentiful and really nice, with a good mix of Asian inspired dishes and more Western fare, including the yummiest fresh tuna marinated kebabs! The lunch is covered in the admission price, you only have to buy your drinks, and the prices are reasonable.

Of course, after lunch I had to leg it to the shop, which offers all kinds of elephant related goodies, some rather pricey, but with some really cute things for kids, and some gorgeous statues – and it is at this point, I’m afraid, that I experienced the only downside to our visit. I was just finishing browsing in the shop, and ready to walk back up to the entrance and have a look at the museum when a rather harried attendant asked me if we were with the group from the Melia. On being told yes, he said that the other couple who arrived with us from the resort, (who had two young children with them), were ready to leave now. I thought it a tad unfair that we were made to cut short our visit, (I could have hung around just watching the elephants for ages), but, there you go!

The safari park also offers its own resort accommodation, in rooms that look out over the elephant area, complete with a swimming pool and beauty spa, (the treatment rooms have huge glass windows), the front of each unit has a tiered balcony so the elephants can walk right up underneath it and take you on a ride to dinner!! How cool would that be?

Julia Roberts and Bali – it’s hard to tell which is more beautiful…

Well, it appears I have just fallen victim to a blog hijack. This weeks installment was going to describe how much fun the Elephant Safari Park in Bali is, but I have just returned from seeing ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ and I’m afraid I have to write about that instead!! Apologies to anyone who would have preferred the elephants – I swear faithfully to blog about them next week.

First off, I should re-admit to being one of those folks who absolutely loved the book, if you like to travel and are interested in different cultures it is a must read, Elizabeth Gilbert has a way of describing her world that is amazing, (and very moreish).

Now…to the movie. If you have read the book it manages to stay very faithful to it, which pleases those who have read it first, if not, then it is a movie easy to follow and enjoy even without the extra nuances that reading a book first brings. As an avid reader I’m afraid the only movies I have found that did justice to their book predecessors were ‘Gone with the Wind’ and ‘The Shawshank Redemption’, now I can add ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ to the list.

I was a little hesitant, I must admit, due to a review in the Sydney weekend paper that said:  “How much Julia Roberts is too much? Twenty years on from Pretty Woman, America’s sweetheart still has the broadest, loveliest smile in Hollywood, but even the most likable actress can outstay her welcome in a relentlessly me-focused movie of two hours and twenty minutes.” Mmmm – not a good recommendation. While he has a point, the movie is all about her because the book is all about her and it strikes a chord with women everywhere that most men wouldn’t be able to understand, just because their life experiences, expectations and outlooks are so different from women’s. (I apologise if I sound sexist here, I mean to say that the movie is a chick flick, not of sex-in-the-city proportions, but quite close – not that there’s anything wrong with that!)

The movie is beautifully shot – with all the panache that a big budget Hollywood production is capable of but they have so much to work with! Italy, India and Bali are showcased to perfection, (although I would have liked to have seen a little more of all three, especially India, but the movie is essentially a movie – not a travel doco). And Julia Roberts is still gorgeous but with just enough small wrinkles visible and slightly dowdy unflattering clothes to be believable as the heroine, who is, after all, just like us, which helps explain the popularity of her story.

This is a love story of our age – the heroine is older, divorced and reeling from the pain that that brings, the hero and quite a few in supporting roles are too. Far from the Cinderella happy-ever-after that we were brought up on, it poses the question – what else is there to believe in?

In short, although I must fess up that twice I found myself thinking about what I was going to cook for dinner, that isn’t a bad run in a movie of 140 minutes. The acting is great, (go the couple of Aussies), the scenery superb, and the story engaging, (and no-one got shot, and nothing exploded)! Ring up your mum, sister, girlfriend, sister-in-law or lady-across-the-street and go see it, particularly on the big screen, you wouldn’t get quite the scope of those long helicopter shots on TV.

Balinese for beginners

Although most people in Bali speak English – even the small children, it is always handy to know a few basic words and phrases in the local language. So, in the spirit of cross cultural understanding, (literally), here are a few of the ones I picked up. Of course, if you are really serious about learning Balinese there are many websites that go into detail.

Salamet datang – means welcome, when you pronounce it the first a in salamet is silent, so it is said more like slamet datang, phonetically: sl-ah-met  da-tang.

Salamet pugi – means good morning, phonetically: sl-ah-met puhg-i

Salamet maalam – means good evening, phonetically: sl-ah-met mah-lum

Terima kaseih – means thank you, phonetically: tir-imah car-say

Sama sama – same to you, phonetically: sarma sarma

Salamet tingal – see you later, bye, see ya etc. phonetically: sl-ah-met ting-gal.                         An interesting side note, I learnt this phrase while watching the 80’s classic movie ‘Child’s play’ on cable TV at the resort. All the English programs are subtitled in Balinese, (which can be a little distracting when you’re trying to watch something), and at the pivotal moment the mother said “See ya Chucky!” which came up on the bottom of the screen as “Salamet Tingal Chucky!” From then on our catchphrase when annoyed with something became “Salamet Tingal Chucky”.

Jalan jalan – means walking, walking, phonetically: jah-lang jah-lang.                                    This phrase is handy to use when hawkers are trying to persuade you to buy from their stall, shop etc. it literally translates as “I’m only looking”. It is considered very bad form to engage a seller in bargaining if you aren’t really serious about buying the item in question. As a rough guide when bargaining for something you should expect a reasonable price to eventually be one-third of the price you are originally quoted.     

Warung – is a place to eat, similar to our cafe/restaraunt, usually sells alcohol as well. Phonetically: wah-ruhng.

Bintang – is the local beer, phonetically: bin-tang.                                  

 

Spending money in Bali – cause shopping is what tourists do best!

First up I must apologise for the slightly misleading title…this blog is not just about shopping…I’m afraid it will be a little less exciting than that, no, this blog is about the paying for the shopping! I have read in other forums and blogs a common theme when about to take a trip – how much spending money should I take? There’s nothing worse than budgeting a certain amount and then getting half way through your dream holiday and worrying about whether you’ll be able to afford dinner!!! Not worrying is why you go on holidays in the first place. My brother and sister-in-law went on their honeymoon to the Maldives…pretty place but so expensive…they had to ring home and borrow some more money from the folks.

So…spending money when holidaying in Bali. Firstly, how to take it there? We were recommended to take what is called a visa cash passport, you can find information at www.cashpassport.com. It is a newish system that takes all the hassle out of carrying money overseas. You go to your nearest travel agent, fill out a form, pay a small fee, and are given two blue cards that look like credit cards, each with its own PIN number, (that you can change to any number you wish), thus if one is stolen you still have the other to access your money. They can be used just like your ATM card – pop it into the machine, key in your pin and out comes the local currency, (in this case, rupiah), or can be used like eftpos at any place that takes visa, which is most shops, restaurants, hotels etc in Bali, just obviously not stalls where you’ll need to pay in cash. You can either load the card with cash, just take the cash to any travel agent and that amount will be credited onto the card, or do it online if you prefer. There are, of course, fees involved, (nothing comes for free these days), I think it is about 1.4% of the value to load the card and about $A5 per withdrawal at an ATM, but the cards stay valid for four years so can be used over and over if you do a bit of travelling.

So…we took $A4,000 loaded onto our snazzy blue cards and I figured that we would just use those for any spending outside the resort, put the hotel bill onto our credit card and worry about that when we got home! I nearly died when we got the bill on our last day and figured we had only spent $A3,500 in total. Considering we had stayed for 12 nights in a five-star resort at Nusa Dua, (the most expensive area in Bali), and defiantly not scrimped on anything we wanted it works out as a very cheap, (not to mention wonderful), holiday.  

This is getting a little dry – I think we need a beautiful photo to refresh ourselves before we go any further, this is the pool area at the resort we stayed in, the Melia Bali resort and spa in Nusa Dua:

As anywhere when travelling it pays to be careful with your money, try not to flash it around or count it when in public…a common problem in Bali is motorcyclists driving past and snatching a handbag off your shoulder, the streets are very busy and the footpaths are narrow and jut right out into the street in places. Those very fetching bum bags are a good idea, or there are small wallets that can be worn on a string around your neck under your shirt, (probably a better look). 

OK, put your reading specs on cause it’s about to get technical…probably the easiest way for me to explain this is to list all that we bought with our A$3,500, well, what I can remember anyway!!

12 nights worth of dinners – our accommodation, transfers, late checkout and huge buffet breakfasts were already prepaid, so we hardly ever ate lunch, didn’t want it and in the heat of the day you often don’t feel much like eating. We ate twice at the resorts flagship restaurant Sorrento, (see my previous post for info on the restaurants themselves and the food), twice at the Tapas bar down by the pool, and three times at El Patio, then dined at the Bali Collection restaurants five times, (lovely, and a bit cheaper but not as nice as at the resort). Most nights we had an average of two courses each, MD had a few beers and I had  a coke or two.

2 lunches – once we sat down by the beach and had a light lunch at the Tapas Bar and once we saw a couple next to us by the pool ordering lunch, it made us feel peckish so we ordered one too!

Drinks – By the pool most afternoons we would order a couple of Bintangs for MD and a coke, fresh fruit juice or cup of tea for me. A few evenings we sat at the lobby bar, chilled and listened to the beautiful music while having a couple of drinks. Bought a few cold drinks out of the mini-bar.

Tips – We gave about A$100 all up to waiters, taxi drivers, masseuse, musicians and a poor lady with a baby begging in Seminyak, MD couldn’t resist her!!

Taxi fares – local trips to Bali Collection and back most days, then twice into Seminyak and back.

The Spa – we had an initial massage free, then became addicted and went back, MD had three Balinese massages and I had two Balinese massages and a scrub and a wrap, (again, see previous post for all the salacious details).

One long distance phone call – about 20 minutes worth of checking on the poor neglected left-at-home kid!

Tours/Activities – a trip to the Elephant Safari Park, (wonderful, see previous post), lunch and transport there and back included, a small wooden jewellery box with a silver elephant on the lid and a T-shirt for MD as souvenirs. A snorkeling trip for both of us including a boat trip out to the reef from the resort.

Shopping in Seminyak – got a beautiful solid silver mens ring for MD and a silver one set with purple and black beads for me, a small brass goddess head statue, (that’s a picture of it as my avatar), six T-shirts for presents, a mens bracelet for our son, lovely top for me from Magali Pascal, (again spp), a new swimming cossie for me, I’m sorry to say two cartons of duty-free cigarettes for presents and a bottle of herbal oil remedy that some guy talked MD into buying, (we got it through customs OK and it looks cute on the dresser)!

Drinks in Seminyak – very hot days, we stopped at about 5 warungs over the two days and had a cold beer and a coke at each of them.

Shopping at the hotel – I bought a pair of Indonesian wooden puppet dolls with beaten brass ornaments on their heads and waists and beautifully painted faces, they stand about 60cm high.

Entry and exit fees – US$24 each for an entry visa and 150,000 rupiah each to depart (about A$25), bank fees for using our card.

Miscellaneous purchases – milk, honey, makeup remover.

A load of washing done through the hotel – look how cute they packaged it when it came back:

I hope that was helpful for anyone thinking about going to Bali, as I have said as a holiday to Bali it was probably the most expensive end of things, if you stay in Kuta or Legian or Seminyak and eat, play and spa there the prices would probably be half what we paid. Enjoy!

S is for soothing…P is for paradise…A is for aahh!

I know, I know, I’ve waxed lyrical about the Melia Bali resort on so much of my blog that it’s probably getting rather tedious but I promise this will be the last… but how could I finish without mentioning…The Spa!!! It is a rather elegant looking building on first glance, with its facing wall totally made up of little pieces of dark grey slate constantly cascaded over by running water, and it’s very handily set down right by the pool. Once inside the large glass double doors it’s quiet, serene, cool, sweetly scented and feels like you’re in another world, (as, you must agree, all good spa’s should be).

When we checked in at the Melia we were given the choice of two free buffet dinners or two massages, (a no brainer really), but though I was very excited about it MD, who had never had a massage in his entire life, was a little unsure about the whole girly business! After being welcomed by the ladies on duty at the desk we were asked to sit in the lounge area and fill out a questionnaire about our medical background, age, and any problems we might need help with, (which is standard spa procedure), whilst doing so we were given cold scented towels to wipe our faces and hands with and the yummiest pale pink iced herbal tea blend I have ever tasted – it tasted of ginger, honey and hibiscus flower.

The waiting lounge area is open in the centre and you can probably just see the rectangular fish tank with the little padded seat on the top where you can experience the latest fad in spa treatments: the fish spa! You gently lower your little tootsies into this tank full of greedy little fish and try to relax as they nibble all the dead skin flakes off…I was not game enough to try it, I’m afraid, and I couldn’t even talk MD into it!! Ringed around the outside are the doors to the treatment rooms, I think there were about 10. On our first day I went in to ask about the treatments available and was given an extensive tour of all their facilities by a lovely lady named Kip, she explained what types of treatments they had, answered questions and gave me some recommendations.

The treatment rooms are available for single or double use and are just beautiful inside, spa’s in Australia tend to be a rather sterile white, while these are decorated in warm tones of dark wood with orange and gold furnishings. There is a locker for your clothes, shoes etc. to be placed in and a cream stone tiled open air bathroom adjacent. All rooms have large glass double doors that open into an enclosed garden with a water feature, if you want they can be opened,(or shut if you prefer the air conditioning, it does get a little warm, unless there’s a nice sea breeze). A touch I found especially nice was that stone bowls full of water with flowers floating in it are put on the floor beneath the massage table so that when you lay face down there’s something nice to look at – and smell.

The free massage offered is a shortened version of the Balinese massage, (3/4 of an hour instead of 1 hour), and involves a little reflexology, a little swedish massage and is very similar to a lymphatic drainage, (if you haven’t had the pleasure of a lymphatic drainage massage it is long, slow, gentle strokes with a little kneading and encourages fluid towards the lymph glands to be excreted). You are able to choose your own scented aromatherapy oil before it begins and all treatments start with a Balinese foot and calf massage in scented water…ooh heaven!!! The cost for the hour-long Balinese massage worked out at about A$70 which is about average for the same thing in a rather cold environment at home. The therapist asks regularly if everything is OK, do you need more or less pressure etc. I am pleased to report that after I finally talked him into having one, MD is now a convert and wanted to go back practically every day we were there!!

After any treatment at the spa you can use the jacuzzi’s for as long as you want – the only downside was that they are segregated, so I couldn’t hang out with MD, but then again, I suppose other ladies mightn’t like having to share their spa with a strange man!! They are in another enclosed garden complete with fountain and are prettily tiled in dark greens and blues, the cold and hot are separate which is a clever idea.

A small tip if you are interested in having a treatment is to hang out by the pool in the morning, looking innocent – most days the spa staff would wander around chatting and handing out price lists, offering a 15% discount on anything booked. Of course apart from a variety of massages there are the usual kind of spa offerings: manicure/pedicure, facials (the natural Balinese one sounded nice, using such things as carrot, ginger, cinnamon, avocado etc), a hair treatment where you are given a scalp massage as well as a conditioning treatment for your hair – it’s called a creme bath, and body scrubs and wraps. I sampled a Balinese tempeh scrub which was a heady mix of spices to warm and purify my skin and rice husks to exfoliate. It left my skin feeling amazingly soft and of course smelt lovely but I underestimated how uncomfortable it would feel in the warm climate, (kind of like being rubbed all over with a scratchy form of deep heat, or dencorub). The moisturizing wrap that followed was called Javanese Lulur and, while a beautiful ruby red in colour, unfortunately felt much the same – and I was wrapped up and left to steam in it for half an hour – but it was my bad for choosing it to start with!! The scrub and wrap cost A$35 each. Any of the massage treatments can be had either indoors or outside in the walled garden in this kooky little thatched house:

You can also opt, (do you need any more choices in this place?) to have a foot and calf reflexology massage in a chair facing the beach…

The spa culture seems to have really taken off in Bali, there are literally hundreds of them available in Seminyak, Kuta, Legian, Ubud, Nusa Dua, in short, where the tourists are, and I’ve heard that you can get a whole days pampering if you want it for about A$100. I can only speak from my experience and I know that even though I handle the heat and humidity well, it wouldn’t have been anywhere near as enjoyable were it not for the air conditioning!

I have found a really enjoyable and informative set of three videos on you tube done in April 2009 by a lady named Brigitte -looks like it was made for TV. If you want to see more about Balinese spa’s, it shows her experience at the Beach resort and Spa in Nusa Dua, the first one in the series is at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TafCsPdRr0

Eating out in Bali – yes, I’m still going…

Do a quick poll amongst people you know…where is the best food to be found in Bali? I guarantee you they will answer ‘Jimbaran Bay’. Well, they’d be pretty much right, the food there is delicious and it is a lovely idea to eat at restaurants that are literally on the sand. The first thing nearly all of the Balinese taxi drivers ask when you hop into their cab is ‘do you like seafood?’ (a question it is impossible to answer in the negative), then they will suggest a trip to Jimbaran Bay to eat in the best seafood restaurant there!! Be a little cautious with this approach, we got caught on our first trip to Bali. They offer free transport, (which is a great idea), but then you are constrained by having to go to the one they take you to. There are about 50 little restaurants sitting cheek-by-jowl together on a relatively small piece of sand, some are ‘nicer’ than others. For example, some have wooden chairs, tablecloths and pretty tealights on the tables, whereas the one we were taken to had old-looking plastic chairs, plastic tablecloths and a general air of dirtiness that was a little off-putting in somewhere you are paying to eat!! I have read since that the diners being dropped off by these cars are given a different menu, with the prices inflated by about 30 %. A better idea is to take a taxi there in the late afternoon, (sunset is at approximately 5.30pm), have a reconnoitre, check out the different places, then pick one and be seated in time for the sun to set over the water just in front of you.

The menus at all the restaurants are basically the same – you pick your seafood from large containers of ice, or sometimes water filled tanks, then it is grilled over hot coals, and served with boiled white rice, a local green vegetable, (kinda like spinach or bok choy in texture) and a choice of one to three sauces.The desserts are confined to tropical fruit mostly and, while they serve alcohol there’s a limited range, (pretty much Bintang or nothing at the majority). Like most good ideas, when the first few shacks set up on the beach to take advantage of the fresh seafood brought in by the fishing fleet at Jimbaran Bay the prices were dirt cheap – however now that it is a bona fide tourist attraction they have risen accordingly. Now for a fairly substantial dinner for two it costs about 1 million rupiah, (or A$118), depending, of course, on what type of seafood you choose, and how much, it is all priced on the weight. I have also read some rumblings about rigged scales but, jeez, you’re on holiday!

 My previous post on Seminyak mentioned the warungs or little cafes that are very common there, the most famous being Maud’s Warung that is on Jalan Raya Seminyak – the food there is supposed to be lovely. There is also the tourist ridden Ku De Ta resort right down on the beachfront, apparently nice for watching the sunset with a cocktail if you can bag a table but the food I’ve heard is not as fancy as the price. One of the new fads in Bali is staying at private villas, complete with 24 hour butler service and private plunge pool. When in Seminyak we were very generously given a tour of the newish ‘Kanishka villas’. They are breathtakingly beautiful, and set in a quiet lane straight off the main shopping road, I would heartily recommend them if you have a spare $US400 a night! They can be found at  www.kanishkavillas.com

 We also checked out the main foyer area to ‘The Villas’, although we weren’t able to see the villas themselves we looked at their complex, which consisted of a spa, gift shop and restaurant. The Prana spa has to be seen to be believed, it is decorated like something out of Ali Baba and the forty thieves and while pricey would definitely be an experience if you are looking for something out of the ordinary. I personally found it a little claustrophobic and dark, the walls and ceiling are all tiled in dark blue or green mosaics and while there’s lots of gold leaf sprinkled around it’s not enough to lighten the atmosphere somehow! The restaurant is decorated in the same vein, you can eat indoors or out in a beautifully decorated courtyard complete with fish pond, fountains, statues and greenery, and the food was delicious, a varied western style menu, expensive for Bali but cheap for those of us used to Sydney prices!!

This is the Prana restaraunt courtyard, at night it is lit up with fairy lights – I can’t decide which photo is cooler, so I’ll put on both!

 

PS. If anyone has any questions about being a tourist in Bali that you would like answered I’m quite happy to give it my best shot…leave it on the comments section below and I’ll get back to you.